Dear Bosnia

---

I did not expect to feel so much love, pain, but ultimately, connection, when visiting Bosnia. In just 6 days, we explored so many places: Sarajevo, Travnik, Srebrenica, Mount Igman and Mount Trebević, to name a few. I could write an entire essay on my time there… and actually, I might, but for now, here’s a few words on some reflections and highlights of my trip..

The Stillness of Winter

Tourist season is during the summer, but I’ve come to realise how winter has its own secret charm. Despite the icy cold air, snowy Sarajevo is something out of a movie. In the white brightness and heavy mist, there was a notable sense of stillness in the city. It was perhaps also partly due to there being quite literally no tourists around, which I have to admit, was a major advantage; we managed to visit so many places swiftly, and hassle free.

It was while we were walking, exploring each site, that the stillness was felt. It was peaceful, and so calming, a much needed change from the business of everyday life. I think it was also just the sheer amount of space we had with barely anyone else there – it meant that we got to see just Bosnia – with no dominating crowds and noise pollution. The cold also made it all the more cosy and warm indoors as we sipped away at countless Bosnian coffees!

Srebrenica Memorial Centre

If I were to write all my thoughts about my time at the Srebrenica Memorial Centre, it would fill an entire book. It was overwhelmingly heart-wrenching. To see the thousands of grave marker stone pillars in photos on a screen is one thing, but to be there in person, and witness its pure vastness, I realised I could not have even begun to imagine just how many lives were taken. Large stones had each and every name of those who were killed engraved into it, and it listed entire families, filling more than two or three rows at a time… these stones, they were taller than me. It took me several minutes to walk from one end of the engraved names to the other, SubhanAllah. 

There was a quiet sadness but fierce spirit there, and it stirred within me. As I uttered prayers upon them, I couldn’t help but think about how, buried under each of the marker pillars, was rarely a full body, but mere remains of loved ones; most of the time, it was not more than one or two bones, identified through DNA testing years later. Mass graves are still being discovered today, and new names are being engraved. It is still an ongoing investigation. So many are still not found. This July 11th will mark the 30th anniversary of the genocide. 30 years.

We were privileged enough to hear the first hand account of a survivor, who so gracefully and bravely shared their family’s experience of the war. I could hear the trauma and pain in his heart as he spoke, and it broke mine.

The Igman War Mosque

One of the biggest highlights of our trip was visiting the Igman War Mosque. Situated in the depths of mount Igman, this hidden mosque in the mountain was built in 1994 and acted as a secret military base for the Bosniaks during the war. It was the main pathway to the Tunnel of Hope, another significant monument of the war, a lifeline for the people of Sarajevo when the whole city was under siege. It was an honour to pray salah there, to say the least.

---

Overall, it was one of the most treasured experiences I’ve ever had. I strongly recommend visiting Bosnia if ever the opportunity arises, the rich history and beauty is astonishing.